Visitors want to stay here for the same reason Dubliners want to live here: quality of life. It’s the most prestigious part of town, known for its embassies, tree-lined streets, and historic buildings. If you’re coming to Dublin specifically for
a conference at the RDS show grounds or a match at the Lansdowne RugbyGround, this neighborhood will put you right in the thick of things. The down-side is that it’s a good 20- to 30-minute walk to get into the city’s best sightseeing and shopping areas.
BALLSBRIDGE/EMBASSY ROW AREA
Jul 20
PUBS
Jun 22
The pub continues to be a mainstay of Irish social life. With more than10,000 specimens throughout the country, there are pubs in every city,town, and hamlet, on every street andat every turn. Everyone has a “local”—a favorite pub near home—where heor she goes for a drink and some conversation. But there is a big distinction between the way the Irish use theirpubs and the way, say, the French usecafes. Where as the French hang out incafes day or night, a recent study conducted by the Vintners’ Federation ofIreland revealed that 80% of drinkers do not go to the pub until after 9pm.The origin of pubs reaches back several centuries to a time when neighbors would gather in a kitchen to talk and maybe sample some home brew. As acertain spot grew popular, word spreadand people came from all directions,always assured of a warm welcome.Such places gradually became knownas public houses—”pubs,” for short. Intime, the name of the person whotended a public house was mounted over the doorway, and many pubs stillbear a family or proprietor’s name,such as Davy Byrnes, Doheny andNesbitt, or W. Ryan. A good percent-age of these have been in the same family for generations. Although they might have added televisions, pool tables, dartboards, or nightly musicsessions, their primary purpose is stillto be a stage for conversation and a warm spot to down a pint.
Trim Castle
May 19
Trim, also called King John’s Castle, recently restored as a “preserved ruin,” is the most massive and important Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland. It proved all but impregnable for over 4 centuries (late 12th to mid-17th), suffering
only one siege during that entire period. In fact, until it collapsed sometime in the 17th century, it never underwent any significant alteration. For anyone with imagination, Trim is a virtual gateway into medieval Ireland.
Climate
May 14
To get a feel for just how hilarious Irish weather is, just tune into one of the TV or radio weather forecasts.
Nowhere else will you hear the phrase, “Today we can expect showers, followed by periods of rain.” Categoriz-
ing rain is an art form in Ireland. First you have “soft rain,” which is like being spritzed by a spray bottle. Then you have “spitting,” just a few random drops that don’t even leave the ground wet. Next come “showers,” brief inter-
vals of rain that last only a few minutes—often while the sun is shining.
The Irish don’t consider it to be true rain unless it’s steady and ongoing enough to warrant an umbrella. In adownpour, you may hear someonecomplain that it’s “lashing,” “bucketing,” or “pelting.”
The only thing consistent about Irish weather is its changeability, with the best of times and the worst of times often only hours, or minutes, apart. There’s a saying that in Ireland you get “all four seasons in one day,” which means you could start your day in heavenly, summery sunshine, getcaught in a brief springlike downpour by lunchtime, go through an autumnal, dry but windy spell in midafternoon, and need a sweater as a wintry evening chill sets in. In other words, when packing, think layers for any time of year.In Ireland the thermometers, gratefully, are a lot less busy than thebarometers. Temperatures are mild and fluctuate within what any New Englander would call “spring.” The generally coldest months, January and February, bring frosts but seldom snow, and the warmest months, July
and August, rarely become truly hot. Remember, the Irish consider any temperature over 68°F (20°C) to be “roasting,” and below 34°F (1°C) as truly “freezing.” Both are unusual, but funny things happen.
